Erdem Fall 2011

Erdem is always a favourite in new season collections, normally for its beautiful delicacy, fresh floral patterns and feminine dresses. This season Erdem Moralioglu didn’t disappoint. However, he did redefine the usual femininity by creating a much darker and abstract collection full of unexpected surprises. The palette was a background of fierce black with vibrant splashes of colour and floral. The effect was intoxicating. Form wise, the collection consisted of mostly shift and A line dresses, often plunging at the neckline, complementing the female form. However, contrasting with the femininity (Yes, it was still there, just darker) there were a few androgynous shirts tucked into structured trousers.

The floor length dresses were perhaps the most memorable, splattered with abstract floral prints which I personally thought gave the impression of tie-dye combined with graffiti, adding to the intensity of the collection. Underlying themes were black lace combined with tweed that would often disappear from the garment sporadically.

Personally I thought that the garments connoted female strength whilst still being extremely feminine. It gave a toughness that other designers have achieved through androgyny. Adversely, Erdem achieved it through embracing femininity. The collection was still Erdem through and through, only with a hardened edge, showing that it’s still as strong as ever.

Here were a few of my favourites...